I was born in Surf City, North Carolina, in a car, in a hurricane, delivered with assistance from my father. He sold his (our) house on the beach when we moved to Southern California. The house was later washed away in another hurricane.
Fallbrook, where I was raised, was twenty miles and some coastal hills away from the ocean. Still, with both parents loving the water… We went to Oceanside Pier, later to Tamarack in Carlsbad. I body surfed, rode styrofoam surfies, later a legitimate surf mat, canvas, five chambers, tow rope, rips up your stomach and tits. My sister bought a surfboard, stock Hobie 9’4″, on the day I graduated from junior high school, June of 1965. I’ve been a surfer ever since.
All I wanted to be was a real surfer. Okay, a ‘local’ somewhere magical. At some point in time I realized how many remarkable real surfers, famous and not famous, I’ve had sessions with, traveled with, fought for waves with, hung out in front of fires and in parking lots with, or, maybe I just watched them ride a few waves.
I started this blog because, already having written a (so far, failed) screenplay, I’ve been working on a novel paralleling my own coming of age in what I still believe was a magical (again, magical) time and place, I wanted some ownership of the name, real surfers; and, once I got started, each story led to another. And, since I’m still seeking the magic in another place and another time, I keep running into remarkable (and) real surfers.
Here are some older posts you may want to check out. If I knew how to link to them I would.
January, 2113- Raphael Reda- “You Gotta Meet This Guy.”
Al Perlee- “You’re too fat, too old, and you don’t surf enough.’
February- Darryl Wood- Can’t hide the Stoke.
Tim Nolan and the Wave of the Day.
Who Told You I Was Naked?
Tom Decker and Jeff Parrish.
March- Hippie, Blueballs, Glueballs, and Me (aka, Asshole)
Corky Carroll, Billy Hamilton and a Rising Swell
“‘Nose, Talking Story” by guest writer Stephen Davis
Surfing With Donald Takayama
Joyce Hoffman’s Bra
April- Phillip and I Surf Grandview With Bucky Davis
John Amsterdam May Still Hate Me (Part Two)
John Amsterdam May Still Hate Me (Part One)
Bill Irwin Called Out Butch Van Artsdalen
May- Trish, 1969 (photo with my old Morris Minor)
John Amsterdam May Still Hate Me (Final? Chapter)
John Amsterdam May Still Hate Me (Chapter 5)
John Amsterdam May Still Hate Me (Part 4)
John Amsterdam May Still Hate Me (continued)
June- Bob Townsend- Same World, Different Era
Windansea, Chris O’Rourke, and the Neanderthal
Speech 101 With Cheer Critchlow
Not Nearly Enough on Ray Hicks
O’side Memories and the End of (the Real) Grandview
July- Cheater 5 (illustration)
My Wave… Mine, Mine, Mine!
Inside Break (illustration, original song lyrics)
Joe Roper Surfed Crystal Pier Like Pipeline
August- Ragged Line (short short story with original illustration by Melissa Lynch)
Wally Blodgett and the Spinning Glass
Wally Blodgett photo, email from his son, Buzz Blodgett
Glass Art by Buzz Blodgett
Wally Blodgett Photo (from Buzz Blodgett’s Photography class)
Classic Arch Pose during 1972 Blackball Session