Category Archives: “Swamis” the novel

Pros Chase Olympic Peninsula swells, and…

Posted on by under "Swamis" the novel, northwest surfing blog,, old surfers, surfing Oceanside in the late 1960s,, writings of Erwin Dence

…Reggie goes viral.

UPDATE- WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 11-VETERANS DAY

I’ve added a new chapter to the “Swamis” I’m sharing on PAGE IV. CHECK IT OUT!

You must have heard about the big swell heading for and hitting the northwest coast last week. If not… hmmmm. Let’s make a distinction here: The coast, or “West End” to anyone who did hear about the first 20 foot plus swell in quite some time knows the area, roughly between Westport and Neah Bay, is not the same as the Strait of Juan de Fuca, though there is some crossover claiming. This is mostly based on how ar a surer from, say, Port Angeles, would be eager and willing to drive to given the given that there is rarely any real surf on the Strait. Maybe Canada. They won’t admit it.

Another difference is that I don’t feel the samme way about blowing up spots on the coast. Or, second thought, maybe I do.

Speaking of second thoughts, here’s a shot, used with permission, of REGGIE SMART and LIL’ TONY (only name I’ve been given) reconsidering going out at an unnamed (by me) spot on the Coast.

“No, Lil’ Tony, this is a lull.”

WHAT I AM NOT SHOWING- YET: Along with gawkers and storm chasers, oh, and potential ffolks who claim to like overhead conditions, there were pro level surfers with camera crews, who weaved through the downed trees and flat alleged surf spots to challenge the surf. videos should be showing up soon, after editing, music and AI content added: BUT, making the rounds from Reggie to friends (me, so far, and others), then to friends of friends, and then to… shit, mmaybe you’ve already seen it… Reggie got a killer photo of a pro-level ripper slotted on a black, killer-level wave the background stormy black. Very dramatic!

I will ask permission on that one, BUT, what you didn’t get is Reggie’s first hand account. Paraphrased. “He was pretty slick; knew what he was doing. He’d go to take off, then he’d look to see if it was going to close out. Most of them did. If so, he’d back off. On this one… I was next to the camera crew… I zoomed in. He took off, dropped in, pretty much in the barrel. When it started closing out, he pulled a big turn, like, straight up, pushed through the back and paddled back out.”

“Impressive.” “Yeah, I was impressed.” There were other tales of rippers ripping, camera crews focusing, gawkers gawking.

MEANWHILE, on the US side of the Strait, bobbers are bobbing, and tourists are touring; folks are doing yoga on SUPs, cold plungers are plunging, and hopeful surfers are waiting, sharing tales in the parking lot, and going over cell phone photos from friends of friends of friends. ” Where’d you get that?” “Can’t say.” “Or won’t” “Or won’t.” “Or won’t.”

ON THE BEACH- I talked recently with two surfers from the North San Diego County area where I was raised, and where I started surfing. One was from Encinitas, where Trish and I lied in the mmmid 1970s, the other from Oceanside, closest beach from Fallbrook, and where I worked for two-and-a-half years (1969-71).

The first guy, Eli, was born in 1980. He may as well have been talking about a different planet; the landmarks were the same (Swamis, Pipes, Grandview, etc), but the 29 year age difference between us very apparent, probably more to him. “No, that wasn’t a spot. There were no named spots between Beacons and Moonlight; and that wasn’t really a serious spot.” “Stone Steps.” “Oh, yeah, Stone Steps.”

Gene was raised in Oceanside, graduated in 1970. Trish was in that class, gaduated from Fallbrook, but had been in Junior High in O’side, was a friend of Barbie Barron. “Oh, yeah, I knew Barbie.” “I’d see her at the little jetty, talking with the guys. Didn’t really think that she was checking it out before school while I was there before work. Trish was in the Oceanside Girls’ Surf Club Barbie started. Trisha’s dad was in the Marine Corps. They moved to philadelphia. Then… Anyway, great time to be in Oceanside for a kid.” “Yeah. You lived in Fallbrook and drove to work” “It was twenty miles.” “Oh. Only time we went there was… looking for chicks.” “Yeah; or avocados.”

Next time I see Gene, maybe we’ll talk about avocados (not a code for marijuana, necessarily). I might mention, next time I talk to Eli, that we bought our house in Encinitas for forty thousand. Different world. Maybe thirty surfers out at Swamis wasn’t as crowded as it would get.

Different times diffferent places; in the water, we’re all hunting for pretty much the same thing. Hope surfing gives you what you’re seeking.

“LOVE SONGS FOR CYNICS is at the printers; samples coming soon. I am planning on doing a public event to promote the book, and will update you on the schedule. I am using thhe in-between time in the northwest’s rainiest month to, hopefully, get ‘SWAMIS’ ready for publication. Check back later, or check out realsurfersdotnet on the Instagram.

I should pimp/sell out Reggie- I think you can find REGGIE SMART on the gram. Maybe he’ll post that photo.

I’m BIG in China and Wondering Why

Posted on by under "Swamis" the novel, gopro shots on the Straits of Juan de Fuca, northwest surfing blog,, old surfers, real surfers, surf culture, writings of Erwin Dence

FIRST- I did go surfing recently, as in, possibly, today, a Saturday, and, before you ask; yes, it was crowded. It’s a Saturday! There was a search for view parking, and no handicapped spots out in the wilds; I had to invoke Costco rules, along with a Costco smile, when, circling, I hit the turn signals, pulled as close as I could to the van whose driver either super dawn patrolled or gave up, and snagged a front row spot. Yes, I squeezed up snuggly close to some dude’s SUV, allowing almost enough room for another, similar sized rig to share the thrill of looking out, directly, at an overcrowded lineup. Weekend Warriors and never-seem-to-work thirty-somethings, some of them couples, on dates. Wow!

Wow as in I should write about the first date Trish and I had, November 10, 1969. I took her to a then 2nd tier spot, allowing her the opportunity to watch me surf uncrowded waves, on to Grandview with a view from the bluff (at least two surfers tried to ‘make time’ with her, then on to gourmet food at the new Jack in the Box.

Yes, she has, mostly, gotten over the thrill of watching me.

And then, back to today, there were the older folks, some of them there, perhaps, to coach younger rippers-to-be. I was particularly interested in the guy with the straps over his wetsuit, there to hold his camera. Go pro, man! I did see him in the lineup. Hopefully he got some good shots of more than the deck of his board.

It wasn’t like I didn’t have some of the “know before you go” stuff going on. Not Surfline, which may have predicted head high bommmbs (didn’t happen), but friend of a friend stuff (allowed if the report is mostly a negative), but I was almost there when I got the news. Two fewer surfers in the water, few waves in the mid thigh range. Mid calf.

NOW, I got to go spend time surfing because TRISH is, finally, getting better. Better is relative, but part of what I take for truth is that she now realizes how close she was to (I hesitate to type this, and I’ve been equally hesitant to admit it) dying. SO, Yay! and Fuck Cancer!

I should note that, out of the water for several months, my first concern was that I would suck. I didn’t rip; didn’t suck; so, success! I did have two ugly attempts at getting back to shore. Normal. I’m kinda old, my knees seem older. 3.5 for the landing. 3.75 from the Canadian judge.

POST SURF REVIEW- I spoke with several friends about my adventure (and every session is), and the argument of crowds ruining sessions came up. The counter is surfers retelling tales of surfing quality waves alone, or with a few friends. Yeah; hang onto those. I do. OH, I did ask a woman parked near me if she got enough waves. She held up one finger. No, different finger. “Hope it was a good one.” “Wave of the day!” “Yay!

I did ask another woman, thinking I recognized her as the one who claims to have once grabbed my leash, if her oversized sprinter van was big enough. I didn’t hear what she responded with, but she may have raised one finger. ” Yeah, wave of the day!”

CHINA ISSUE- WORDPRESS keeps track, and I get a lot of hits, too many, from China. I can’t help but imagine that their Commie AI wants to decipher my writing style, possibly to duplicate it to infiltrate America, and then world surf literature. Joke’s on them. I could explain, but, meanwhile, I’m not unhappy to get semi-successful numbers.

Yes, I’m totally exaggerating, though I did have a guy in the lineup tell me he reads realsurfers. “Oh, you’re the one. Thanks. I’m popular in China.” “Cool. You had a lot of drop-ins.” “Yeah. People recognize a decent wave when I’m on it.” “China, huh?”

MEANWHILE, enjoy whatever surf adventure you’re on. If some old cruster gets a parking spot or a wave you wanted, well, part of your story. Costco rules apply.

JIM ALLRED is helping me put together a book of my work, “Love Songs for Cynics.” I have to come up with artwork (I have lots). I’ll keep you, and China, updated.

“SWAMIS,” my novel, is… still… almost… totally… done.

erwin@realsurfers.net realsurfersdotnet on Instagram

NOTE- I almost posted a photo that showed a part of the coastline on the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Lovely sunset, no waves, but, still, if it fell into the wrong hands…

If You Threw a Surf Contest and the Waves…

Posted on by under "Swamis" the novel, Competitive surfing,, hipster surfers, northwest surfing blog,, oregon surfing, real surfers, surf contests, surf culture, writings of Erwin Dence

…failed to show up.

Image from Trent Olson (or Olsen- didn’t go back to check) Facebook page. One dude (guessing, not being snarky) won’t pull up his wettie (Australian influenced jargon) until the water is genital level (I agree with this cold water adjustment strategy), the other dude don’t need no stinkin’ (and they usually are- with or without urinary help) booties, and, wait, are those both soft-tops? Wavestorming Cape Kawanda.

I have been critical of the spot in the past, one of the few places in the northwest with multiple web cams. But I have checked it out. Yes, I called it the ‘pull back’ capital, did remark on how (and this is typical of west coast beach breaks) the outside sets, mushy or not, closeout or not, lead one to the inside double-ups, most of them crashing closeouts. Yes, I have wondered why one weekend day there’s only a few adult learners jumping into the re-forms, getting thrashed, popping up prematurely, but still claiming victory for the relatives on the beach; and sometimes, same conditions, there’s hordes of heroes and villains vying for evrery three second ride.

Good Luck; I have to go; I’ll check back. Later.

I do have to go to work. erwin@realsurfers.net

realsurfersdotnet on the Gram.

News on the literary front. Coming soon. You know, like the next swell.

Dragons and Swamis in three point perspective

Posted on by under "Swamis" the novel, Erwin Dence illustrations, northwest surfing blog,, real surfers, surf art, surf fiction, surf illustrations, surf novels, Uncategorized, writings of Erwin Dence

NOTE- I have added a hopefully finished version of “SWAMIS,” CHAPTER 2, on PAGE IV. Also… PAGE VI, selected, previously posted, original illustrations, is now up to and including works from 2017. Scroll at your leisure. Or now.

Some things…

…don’t turn out the way we plan. Or, more like it, nothing turns out the way we envision. I have kind of given up on explaining any thought process, but… I did the lettering first on the ‘Swamis’ nevver going to be a cover drawing. It’s too overbearing, but, after I completed it, I showed it to my daughter, Dru. “It’s, like, three point perspective. See? The lettering, the ‘Magic,’ and the ‘Swamis,’ and the surfer.” “Oh, I didn’t notice the surfer at first.” “Right. The… layout, the arrangement… makes your eyes move from… I dropped Design class in college, like, three times. We were supposed to do something with three point perspective, and mine, probably the best, technically, was in, according to the professor… older woman… four point.” “Was she right?” “Sure.”

The ‘dragons’ drawing: I wanted to do something with a better rendered dragon, possibly slithering in a lined-up wave. I didn’t love the way it was going. This is the way it went, kind off in the spray and foam. As far as perspective… how would I know? Mine, I guess.

It’s not, necessarily, my plan to do color versions of illustrations that I intend to package as a coloring book, but I couldn’t help but provide a… version. The “Magic” drawing was colored with pens rather than pencils. Yeah, me explaining.

“Swamis” Update- As far as actually working on tightening the novel, I have excuses. Time and fear are the main ones. A third? Let’s say perspective.

Surf Report: Pretty bleak summer on the Strait, surf-wise. Yeah. Go coastal!

erwin@realsurfers.net Instagram me, realsurfersdotnet

NO AI USED on illustrations or, obviously, written content. Copyright protected. All rights reserved by Erwin A. Dence, Jr.

SUMMERTIME, AND THHE LIVING IS…

Posted on by under "Swamis" the novel, Erwin Dence illustrations, northwest surfing blog,, old surfers, real surfers, writings of Erwin Dence

EASY? Maybe. Sometimes summertime is busy; I have a lot going on. I’m sure you do, also. Part of my frustration is just trying to get some of my work (real job, painting contractor in the limited season in the Great Northwest) done. More work, less time… frustrating. Not haviing the tine to go into detail here, writing being one of my joys (surfing- yes and no, no time to go all the way to the coast.

Dru and I have been trying to take care of Trish during her sloooow recovery from the aftereffects of chemo and radiation. Trish has turned a corner; she’s getting stronger; less chemo fog; but she is still limited in mobility. She can’t be left alone for extended periods. And shouldn’t be.

While I’m trying to finish jobs, Dru is in the middle of the CONCERT season for the OLYMPIC MUSIC FESTIVAL. Not sure what her official title in running the non-music part of the non-profit is, but… Example- She worked until 11:30 PM last night, and had to be back in Port Townsend by 7:50 AM to open the WHEELER THEATRE at FORT WORDEN for the piano tuner. Concert this afternoon. Paper work until… Same schedule tomorrow.

Some of the musical activities take place at ARCADIA, just out of town. This is one of few remaining serigraphs I did of the venue, back in the late 1980s. I found it and some other prints in the attic a few years ago. I’m posting it here so Dru can show… whoever.

I have to go. Hope you’re surfing, hanging, bobbing in the water; enjoying summer.

I will update from the tablet. Later. Oh, and it’s my birthday on Monday. 40th anniversary of turning 35.

Deleting from and Adding to “Swamis”

Posted on by under "Swamis" the novel, Erwin Dence illustrations, northwest surfing blog,, real surfers, writings of Erwin Dence

I have been too busy to do work on my latest (theoretically/optimisticly finished) rewrite of my novel. OR it has been low on my priority list. HOWEVER AND ALWAYS, thoughts about it pop up. This needs more, this less. One thought that recurs is that my first chapter is, possibly, too cool. I claim to hate cuteness and too-cuteness; but there it is. Dialogue without stage direction I insist is enough.

SO, I may cut it out entirely. NO, NO, not that; I will move it to CHAPTER IV as an alternative.

Check it out. Thanks. Is today, or is every day INTERNATIONAL SURFING DAY?

erwin@realsurfers.net

realsurfersdotnet on the Gram.

Negative Image of “Swamis”

Posted on by under "Swamis" the novel, writings of Erwin Dence

Yeah, I am still working on it. Possibly the only advantage of taking so damn long on the novel is that new things come to me, little details I can inject into the story. Here’s one I haven’t added. Yet: A somewhat crazed guy hanging out every evening at sunset talks to Joey with some wild and poetic descriptions. If Joey seems insufficiently impressed, it might be a worthwhile addition to have him mention this.

I will get back to this when I get the image (copyright protected) reversed, black to white. This doesn’t mean I won’t make other changes. In fact, that’s guaranteed. See you!

Skip Frye and I, Skip Frye and Me

Posted on by under "Swamis" the novel, Erwin Dence illustrations, Original Erwin, real surfers, surf culture, surfing blogs, surfing for life, surfing novels, surfing Southern California in the 60s, writings of Erwin Dence

UPDATES- NONE at the moment- Saturday, July 18.BUT…

Skip Frye and I, Skip Frye and Me- Several Anecdotes

INTRO-

A sudden, not-going-to-last obsession with classic surfer Skip Frye was triggered by an episode of “Pinch my Salt” showing up on YouTube. I’m fine watching a snippet of the pretty smarmy Sterling Spencer, but I’m never ready to spend an hour plus watching… anyone. This is what fast forward is for. 

This episode promised an interview with Skip; but it did start without him. So, fast forward; though I had to watch a portion where Sterling claimed someone ‘picked his pocket.’  It turned out to be a not unusual ‘chat and steal.’ One of my standard moves.  Or so I’ve been told.

Then, on to the interview. If someone personifies an eighty-three-year-old lifetime (not Skip’s, probably yours) San Diego surfer, no one better fills the role than Mr. Frye.  The hosts were respectful, though Skip was pushed to say something negative about soft tops (he said someone gave him one, but he’d never ride it), surfers who put their names on popouts (almost did because Donald Takayama wanted him to make some real money, but died before it might, or might not have happened), and modern surfing competition, the toughest and truest thing he would say, though he did contests, is that the one winner ruthlessness takes something away from what is often referred to as soul surfing.

Skip, who tries to turn out six boards a week, none cheap, all highly sought after, is still the epitome of soul. Surfing or otherwise.

The other guy on the podcast, Sterling’s cousin Ryan Spencer, asked the viewers to pleas be nice to Skip in the comments. I checked. Not a negative comment in the bunch, and, when Skip pulled out a harmonica at the end and played a mellow version of, “What a Friend We Have in Jesus,” well, people broke into tears. Or so they said.

TAMARACK, 1965-

My family (seven kids, our mom) was parked in the lower lot, as always. I was a total beginner/kook, just switching over from mat to board. I was probably still sharing my older sister’s (Suellen’s) 9’4” stock Hobie. There had been some sort of contest. Surfers and their entourages were loading up, ready to head home. “Skip was robbed!” “Skip should’ve won!”

I have this image, real or not, in my permanent files: A blond-haired guy shrugging off the comments meant to reassure him. 

PACIFIC BEACH, SAN DIEGO- 1971-1973- Later. I gotta go. But, coming… STEALING a design from TOM MOREY, surfing from Tourmaline to Crystal Pier ala Skip, finding nuggets in a crowded lineup, soul arching, ala Skip, just for the fun of it.

The Morey-Pope WATERSKATE, produced by Gordon & Smith; probably shaped by SKIP FRYE.

ULTRA CLASSIC TRIO- Photo by RON STONER, MICHAEL HYNSON paddling out, and SKIP (never not in trim) SKIP FRYE soul arching at THE RANCH.

I want to stress that I have been doing some research on this stuff. I have always been intrigued by the Hynson/Frye friendship, partially because they seem like such different individuals. If I give Hynson a lot of credit for downrail surfboards, prove me wrong. It was interesting to learn, from the podcast, that they were riding boards Michael had shaped for the 1966 Duke Kahanamoku contest. Cool.

CONTACT- erwin@realsurfers.net InstaGram- realsurfersdotnet

Thanks for checking out my site. Get some waves, summer isn’t really endless.

Tracking Incredible Ocean Photographer (with, of course, her permission) Rachael Talibart

Posted on by under "Swamis" the novel, northwest surfing blog,, real surfers, surf photos, surfing blogs, writings of Erwin Dence

The photographer, abovve, some of her work, below.

I am writing something about how addictive INSTAGRAM is, but, while scrolling (and, can’t help it), and (occasionally) commenting, I came across some incredible photographs of the open ocean; the chaos and the power and the beauty, taken by Rachael Talibart. I HAD to comment. The first comment on a collection of black and white images, which I self-borrowed from a possibly edited-out quote from Ruth DeFreines in my novel, “SWAMIS,” (note the self promotion here- not there) was, “Our minds fill in the colors.” It got a like/heart (part of the addictiveness).

I, of course, had already hit ‘Follow,’ so I got more posts from @rachaeltalibart. I sent a comment saying I would love to include some of her work on my HUMBLE (not by design) blog, and she ‘replied’ it was fine if I include a working link to her website.

This linking is tough for me. I will get my daughter, Dru, to assist.

What interests me is figuring out what kind of person chases storms to capture the previously mentioned power and chaos and beauty, the source of what surfers seek, groomed-out and organized, of course. NOT a lot of bio stuff readily available. Rachael lives in the south of England, gets seasick, and takes on extreme weather so folks can look at the images (she has a book, “Sirens) in comfort, perhaps with one of them as a sort of window, framed and hanging in a formal room.

Anyway, thank you, Rachael. Heart/like.

Meanwhile, I’m getting my works together and planning on having Dru help with the formatting, pre-publishing stuff for my upcoming (I promise) collection, “Love Songs for Cynics.”

I do have some newly added Original Erwin additions on my other pages (nothing on the political or religious front at the moment), so check that out if you get a chance. Contact- erwin@realsurfers.net, Instagram- realsurfersdotnet. AND thanks, as always, for spending. a little time at my humble (not by design) site. GET SOME WAVES!

For The Complaint Department, Go To: Helen Waite

Posted on by under "Swamis" the novel, hipster surfers, learning to surf, northwest surfing blog,, old surfers, real surfers, real surfers coloring book, Seattle surfers, surf adventures, surf sessions, surfing blogs, surfing in Washington State, surfing Neah Bay, surfing the strait of juan de fuca, women surfers in the Northwest,, writings of Erwin Dence

I was working in Port Angeles all week, never had (or gave myself) a chance to even check out the surf; but, then, wait for it (I have), I went. Yeah, I joined the seeming caravan of time-offers and weekenders and vacationers headed toward the Olympic Peninsula, home to the Olympic Mountains, named, appropriately, after the mythical home of the mythical gods. It’s like… Nirvana, with a different lineup (do I have to add ‘not the bend? Probably). Yeah, and there’s, like forests and… lakes, and… It is enticing, entrancing, inviting those stuck on I-5 to drive however many hours to get here. And the weather has just been so… Southern California-ISH. Not that I’m complaining.

This was a side project. I was painting an ADU on the Port Angeles property. Someone else cut out the trees a while back. The homeowner, who has a lot off artsy stuff going on, gave me free reign. Thanks.

The job done, I traded ladders for a thrashed out board, and headed back north. It’s not that I want to share the road OR the waves. Dawn patrolling might help. Still, I worry. I am still trying to get past a severe thrashing from mid-winter, and have had few opportunities to rebuild my. confidence. What if, I was thinking on the way up Surf Route 101, it’s closed out and crowded and… ?And then, when I arrived… no worries; no ‘got to go NOW’ conditions. Barely breaking. It was a ‘it might get better’ situation, so, normal. Not crowded… yet. No side wind. Yet. I took my time, chatted with PA locals, Bill Truckenmueller (sp?) and his son, who talked about how the day before was better, and never got out of their van, and told me they were leaving as a sacrifice to the swell gods. “Thanks. I’ll let you know what you missed next time I see you.”

Parked in my favorite spot was THOR. I’ve surfed with him quite a few over the years. He said the previous day started similarly weak and inconsistent, and got better. The last time I saw Thor was at the Lower Elwha gas station. He had just suffered a serious injury. He’s fully recovered now. I filled him in on what is happening with me. I did, because I do, mention this blog. “You. mean your personal complaint department?” ‘Huh? What? Um, yeah.”

Still taking my sweet time getting suited up, a rig pulled up next to me, two young (relatively) men jumped out, instantly started putting fins on their fancy wood boards. Just making conversation, because ERWIN TALKS TO STRANGERS, I mentioned their parking gave themselves plenty of room, but they could have parked closer, allowing the next folks room. “No.” Okay. No disagreeing. I asked one of them how long he’d been surfing. “A while.” “Oh. Did you, like, start during Covid?” “Give me a break.” “Okay, so… adult learner. Surf school.” No answer. “It’s pretty flat. Hobuck’s probably big. Maybe you should go there.” The other guy came around the corner, turning his Patagonia wetsuit rightsideout while doing modified squats. “Why don’t you go, then?” “Too far. Too scary.” “Sure.” Possible sarcasm. “Um, where’d you, if I might ask, come from?” No answer. “I live in Quilcene. It’s down the canal.” “Okay. Sure.” Somewhere it was revealed they were from Kirkland. “Might be bigger there,” one of the Kirkland dudes said before he raced his friend toward the water.

It’s fine that, when flipping friendly-ish shit, some gets flipped back. The test of surfing is in the water. By the time I got out, there were five or six other surfers out. Long boards. I took off on a wave, not believing (or looking) behind me. “Hey!” A guy on a green longboard, who wasn’t on the wave, yelled, “You have to look. That’s it! You get. one. drop-in!” He paddled out. I paddled out. He back paddled me. Evidently backpaddling was acceptable. Fine. Game on!

I don’t mean to overdramatize this; not high tension. Just, with not-great waves, kind of unnecessary.

There were some other ‘your wave, my wave’ things happening over the course of the session, but I didn’t have any other disputes with the unofficial regulator. He did continue to backpaddle, I played my game, managed to get some rides I was really happy with. Meanwhile, the Kirkland guys did not dominate. The lineup had the usual small day ratio of beginners to experienced surfers, and I noticed several of the guys in the water looked… similar. We all want to identify who, in the water, is going to blow a takeofff, who is a bit too aggressive; all of which helps us catch more waves and stay out of trouble. Maybe. Plus, it’s not cool to stare at your. competition. Or talk too much.

None of these societal restraints kept me from paddling over and making a comment to the large (not that I’m small) woman with a bright red, full-brimmed hat on. It seemed, not staring, that it was attached to a hood. Maybe it just had a very practical chin strap. “You’re doing your best to avoid cancer,” I said. “I’m trying.” She took off on a wave, went straight, and two other women, with similar hats, about to paddle out, hooted, wildly, as if their friend had won the contest. Perhaps she had. We are all competing in our minds. Aren’t we?

I managed to outlast the green board enforcer, but he did paddle out next to Thor, and, possibly because Thor was, my assessment, the best surfer out at this time, engaged him in conversation. I mentioned that when the waves dropped back to minimal as the tide drained out. “Yeah, I told him you’re old, you have really bad knees, your wife is battling cancer, and you should give you a break.” “Thanks, Thor, but… about those two times you burned me…” “Oh, one was for the guy you burned, and the other… It was my one free burn.” Fair. Enough.

I had to take this photo. The guy sat there a while, looking like Rodin’s “The Thinker.” I asked if he was thinbking, “Damn, should have gotten here earlier.” “No, I was thinking… maybe it’ll get better.” Eventually. Yes.

Contact- erwin@realsurfers.net

Instagram- realsurfersdotnet

Thanks; catch some waves when you can, limit your dropins, backpaddle at will, keep it friendly, keep it fun. But, FUCK CANCER!

Oh, shit! I forgot. I do have some new ORIGINAL ERWIN illustrations. I will post them soon.