Image from Trent Olson (or Olsen- didn’t go back to check) Facebook page. One dude (guessing, not being snarky) won’t pull up his wettie (Australian influenced jargon) until the water is genital level (I agree with this cold water adjustment strategy), the other dude don’t need no stinkin’ (and they usually are- with or without urinary help) booties, and, wait, are those both soft-tops? Wavestorming Cape Kawanda.
I have been critical of the spot in the past, one of the few places in the northwest with multiple web cams. But I have checked it out. Yes, I called it the ‘pull back’ capital, did remark on how (and this is typical of west coast beach breaks) the outside sets, mushy or not, closeout or not, lead one to the inside double-ups, most of them crashing closeouts. Yes, I have wondered why one weekend day there’s only a few adult learners jumping into the re-forms, getting thrashed, popping up prematurely, but still claiming victory for the relatives on the beach; and sometimes, same conditions, there’s hordes of heroes and villains vying for evrery three second ride.
Good Luck; I have to go; I’ll check back. Later.
I do have to go to work. erwin@realsurfers.net
realsurfersdotnet on the Gram.
News on the literary front. Coming soon. You know, like the next swell.
It’s been a long while since I competed in any surf contest other than the de facto, any time it’s crowded, sessions. Yes, there are judges, always, the self judge being thhe one most susceptible to bribery and/or choosing sentimentality over reality. Speed, power, flow? Not always. Best two rides out of however many I could snag, steal, or even, have priority and etiquette on my side.
There are some Olympic Peninsula regulars (NOTE- Not all live here) who compete in these events. I should mention Z. I don’t know his actual name, and don’t think I’ve ever met him, but he delivers stuff for one off the non-Amazon companies in the Port Townsend area, and my friend, Keith Darrock, runs into him fairly frequently. He’s a past winner in his age category at Cape Kawanda (at least), and, most recently, told Keith he spent some time in the Mentawais, ‘practicing,’ or, as they say iin the WSL, ‘working.’ Yeah, Z’s fired up!
Keith is down in Westport, taking in the vibe. I have requested some photos. So far, I got texts saying Surf Route 101 was jammed, yesterday, the HAMA HAMA BANJO-RAMA also happening; and one saying a lot of Wavestorms were heading toward the coast. These events do have a bit of a circus flavor, not that the parking lot/bathroom-shower facility, bluff aren’t always a hotbed for kook-to-wannabes-to pissed off locals-to tourists snd posers. WHO DOESN’T LOVE A CIRCUS?
Hawaiian Brian, just after he won his division at Cape Kawanda last year. Or the year before. He did have his trophy with him, out onb the Strait… working.
Me, in the brownish hoodie, at the judges’ table a few years back. TOM BURNS got me the spot, and, because I judged rides as I saw them, and because I was loud, and because everyone except the head judge was having way too much fun, and despiite the fact I tried way harder on Sunday to behave and go along with the expected scoring, I was not invited back. Either was Tom, BUT, time and all, I do believe Tom is judging this weekend. I’m afraid to call and possibly disturb him.
A rented 40 FOOT LADDER was required to complete the stain job on this charming cottage: Taken just after I got off the roof (explaining the slight unevenness). There is a story about the high ladder woodworking I did to correct what high level woodpeckers damaged.
Can this tire be saved? There is a story involving a post Seahawks victory, late night blowout, a very steep spot where the car ended up, no phone coverage (luckily texts went through), the car falling off and wrecking the jack, another rescue from my daughter, Dru, and a successful switch to the temporary tire by ADAM WIPEOUT JAMES, the person I bought the car from, though, ater fixing the brakes he had no obligation to help.
It’s another in a long history of ERWIN BREAKS DOWN stories. When I told it to Librarian Keith, he was not properly impressed by the drama. He was checking the surf, it wasn’t exactly Alexander Dumas, or even Tom Clancy storytelling, and it doesn’t make me appear as anything other than kind of helpless, so… maybe later, maybe on the surf trip I promised Adam and included Keith. Wondering if I’ll have to find a new rim is keeping me… anxious.
I am working on some other stuff, and after a summer-long drought, and despite it still being painting season, it is raining. Is there hope for the wave pattern to switch? Yes. Why should California get all the waves?
erwin@realsurfers.net
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Thanks for checking out realsurfers.net Get some waves!
NOTE- I have added a hopefully finished version of “SWAMIS,” CHAPTER 2, on PAGE IV. Also… PAGE VI, selected, previously posted, original illustrations, is now up to and including works from 2017. Scroll at your leisure. Or now.
Some things…
…don’t turn out the way we plan. Or, more like it, nothing turns out the way we envision. I have kind of given up on explaining any thought process, but… I did the lettering first on the ‘Swamis’ nevver going to be a cover drawing. It’s too overbearing, but, after I completed it, I showed it to my daughter, Dru. “It’s, like, three point perspective. See? The lettering, the ‘Magic,’ and the ‘Swamis,’ and the surfer.” “Oh, I didn’t notice the surfer at first.” “Right. The… layout, the arrangement… makes your eyes move from… I dropped Design class in college, like, three times. We were supposed to do something with three point perspective, and mine, probably the best, technically, was in, according to the professor… older woman… four point.” “Was she right?” “Sure.”
The ‘dragons’ drawing: I wanted to do something with a better rendered dragon, possibly slithering in a lined-up wave. I didn’t love the way it was going. This is the way it went, kind off in the spray and foam. As far as perspective… how would I know? Mine, I guess.
It’s not, necessarily, my plan to do color versions of illustrations that I intend to package as a coloring book, but I couldn’t help but provide a… version. The “Magic” drawing was colored with pens rather than pencils. Yeah, me explaining.
“Swamis” Update- As far as actually working on tightening the novel, I have excuses. Time and fear are the main ones. A third? Let’s say perspective.
Surf Report: Pretty bleak summer on the Strait, surf-wise. Yeah. Go coastal!
I just got to January of 2017 in posting most (not all) of my illustrations posted on realsurfers, starting at 2013, heading toward now. Maybe because I hit the last fourth of a century tomorrow, I thought I might put this back up. Although my own pen-and-ink drawing style was most inspired by work by RICK GRIFFIN, it has been more often compared to drawings by R. Crumb.
Yes, I was trying to break into the rarified company of NEW YORKER cartoonists. It didn’t work. Their loss. It took some some sleuthing to get an address, some nerve to make the request. I was an am pretty dang (could have said ‘fuckin”) stoked that I got a positive, and properly sardonic response.
Thanks, Robert Crumb.
“Yes, there’s “in” someone’s pocket, and “IN someone’s pocket.”
No, I don’t get it; hhoped the New Yorker snobs would. Their loss; oh, and perhaps this was my ‘green period’ of black and white pen and ink.
erwin@realsurfers.net
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If you’re planning on surfing, always plan on wailing!
All original illustrations and other original content protected by copyright, all rights reserved by Erwin A. Dence, Jr. Thanks!
EASY? Maybe. Sometimes summertime is busy; I have a lot going on. I’m sure you do, also. Part of my frustration is just trying to get some of my work (real job, painting contractor in the limited season in the Great Northwest) done. More work, less time… frustrating. Not haviing the tine to go into detail here, writing being one of my joys (surfing- yes and no, no time to go all the way to the coast.
Dru and I have been trying to take care of Trish during her sloooow recovery from the aftereffects of chemo and radiation. Trish has turned a corner; she’s getting stronger; less chemo fog; but she is still limited in mobility. She can’t be left alone for extended periods. And shouldn’t be.
While I’m trying to finish jobs, Dru is in the middle of the CONCERT season for the OLYMPIC MUSIC FESTIVAL. Not sure what her official title in running the non-music part of the non-profit is, but… Example- She worked until 11:30 PM last night, and had to be back in Port Townsend by 7:50 AM to open the WHEELER THEATRE at FORT WORDEN for the piano tuner. Concert this afternoon. Paper work until… Same schedule tomorrow.
Some of the musical activities take place at ARCADIA, just out of town. This is one of few remaining serigraphs I did of the venue, back in the late 1980s. I found it and some other prints in the attic a few years ago. I’m posting it here so Dru can show… whoever.
I have to go. Hope you’re surfing, hanging, bobbing in the water; enjoying summer.
I will update from the tablet. Later. Oh, and it’s my birthday on Monday. 40th anniversary of turning 35.
SATURDAY UPDATE: Not all writers and/or artists are anal retentive. Some might be the opposite (anal explosive, I’ve been told- kind of believe it). And while I’m thinking about it, the opposite of PHALLIC symbolism in art and architecture and billionaires’ private spacecraft; and I have noticed this in art and in “Lord of the Rings,” is, I’m informed, by various sources on the internet, YONIC. References the womb. I didn’t get too investigative. Okay, but, years ago, an artist whose work was totally not phallic, told me it was VAGINAL. All this time, I was fine with that.
All that aside, my stuff, particularly on PAGE III, Serious Writing, is mostly written on-site rather than on Microsoft Word, and even if it originally was, I can’t help going back over it, refining, editing. YES, this explains something about my novel, “SWAMIS,” the anal retentive part being how difficult it is to delete something that I believe is kind of decent.
I have a new piece, part of my occasional dream diaries, and I’ve made changes to two pieces on PAGE III: “Between the Walls of Trees,” a short short story, and “Into the Void,” a poem/song. Since I’m stuck on differences, I usually develop songs while driving; repeating one verse, adding others in. Because of this process, I remember the words better than something I write on the computer. BUT THEN, I want the piece to make sense and have a certain flow. Retentive.
Update complete for now.
SEVERAL FRIENDS hepped me to this; it’s a screen grab from this guy, R. Jesus Delacruz (translates to ‘of the cruz’), evidently talking some shit about Port Townsend folks. Not that I don’t. Nothing too serious from me. But, yes, folks selling a mid-priced hone in CA and buying a McMansion here is kind of erksome.
Not sure if he focused on me, or if I was just part of a pan, left or right, but…this was taken at the SAVE THE WAVES event in which a short film, “ERWIN” (available for viewing on the ‘about’ page), was being aired as part of a worldwide tour.
Doesn’t mean I am not from California. I AM A REFUGEE. Of sorts. Sold a house in San Diego in 1978, moved to Quilcene. Two of my three children were born in Port Townsend. Not sure when or where Mr. Delacruz was born, and don’t care.
ALSO, while trying to shed any vestiges of my California-ness, I’m not trying to get him more coverage.
Got to go. Work to do in Port Townsend for folks who are from somewhere else, but not from California. No, no; again; don’t care.
erwin@realsurfers.net
Occasionally I post on Instagram. More often I comment on other people’s posts. Can’t help it. Need counseling. It’s just… putting emojis isn’t, like, much more meaningful than hitting the heart symbol. It’s realsurfersdotnet.
Great weekend for hanging on the beach, any beach, trying to will a swell. Good luck, and thanks for checking out my humbled blog.
I have been too busy to do work on my latest (theoretically/optimisticly finished) rewrite of my novel. OR it has been low on my priority list. HOWEVER AND ALWAYS, thoughts about it pop up. This needs more, this less. One thought that recurs is that my first chapter is, possibly, too cool. I claim to hate cuteness and too-cuteness; but there it is. Dialogue without stage direction I insist is enough.
SO, I may cut it out entirely. NO, NO, not that; I will move it to CHAPTER IV as an alternative.
Check it out. Thanks. Is today, or is every day INTERNATIONAL SURFING DAY?
UPDATES- NONE at the moment- Saturday, July 18.BUT…
Skip Frye and I, Skip Frye and Me- Several Anecdotes
INTRO-
A sudden, not-going-to-last obsession with classic surfer Skip Frye was triggered by an episode of “Pinch my Salt” showing up on YouTube. I’m fine watching a snippet of the pretty smarmy Sterling Spencer, but I’m never ready to spend an hour plus watching… anyone. This is what fast forward is for.
This episode promised an interview with Skip; but it did start without him. So, fast forward; though I had to watch a portion where Sterling claimed someone ‘picked his pocket.’ It turned out to be a not unusual ‘chat and steal.’ One of my standard moves. Or so I’ve been told.
Then, on to the interview. If someone personifies an eighty-three-year-old lifetime (not Skip’s, probably yours) San Diego surfer, no one better fills the role than Mr. Frye. The hosts were respectful, though Skip was pushed to say something negative about soft tops (he said someone gave him one, but he’d never ride it), surfers who put their names on popouts (almost did because Donald Takayama wanted him to make some real money, but died before it might, or might not have happened), and modern surfing competition, the toughest and truest thing he would say, though he did contests, is that the one winner ruthlessness takes something away from what is often referred to as soul surfing.
Skip, who tries to turn out six boards a week, none cheap, all highly sought after, is still the epitome of soul. Surfing or otherwise.
The other guy on the podcast, Sterling’s cousin Ryan Spencer, asked the viewers to pleas be nice to Skip in the comments. I checked. Not a negative comment in the bunch, and, when Skip pulled out a harmonica at the end and played a mellow version of, “What a Friend We Have in Jesus,” well, people broke into tears. Or so they said.
TAMARACK, 1965-
My family (seven kids, our mom) was parked in the lower lot, as always. I was a total beginner/kook, just switching over from mat to board. I was probably still sharing my older sister’s (Suellen’s) 9’4” stock Hobie. There had been some sort of contest. Surfers and their entourages were loading up, ready to head home. “Skip was robbed!” “Skip should’ve won!”
I have this image, real or not, in my permanent files: A blond-haired guy shrugging off the comments meant to reassure him.
PACIFIC BEACH, SAN DIEGO- 1971-1973- Later. I gotta go. But, coming… STEALING a design from TOM MOREY, surfing from Tourmaline to Crystal Pier ala Skip, finding nuggets in a crowded lineup, soul arching, ala Skip, just for the fun of it.
The Morey-Pope WATERSKATE, produced by Gordon & Smith; probably shaped by SKIP FRYE.
ULTRA CLASSIC TRIO- Photo by RON STONER, MICHAEL HYNSON paddling out, and SKIP (never not in trim) SKIP FRYE soul arching at THE RANCH.
I want to stress that I have been doing some research on this stuff. I have always been intrigued by the Hynson/Frye friendship, partially because they seem like such different individuals. If I give Hynson a lot of credit for downrail surfboards, prove me wrong. It was interesting to learn, from the podcast, that they were riding boards Michael had shaped for the 1966 Duke Kahanamoku contest. Cool.
I have some new stuff on PAGE VII, ‘”Erwin Talks to Strangers,” and on PAGE VIII, “Love Songs for Cynics.” I’m doing this as a new post, but will probably move these drawings to Page VIII later.
If I stop writing new material and re-re-re-editing older pieces, I have enough for a book. I need to look through my collection (not that there’s any real organization) of illustrations to find work that goes along with the songs and essays and… And, problem is so much is surf related and/or landscape rather than portrait, format-wise.
MEANWHILE, I ENJOY doing these border things and… I enjoy drawing. YEAH.
AND, more meanwhile, life continues to provide more material. Jeez, an annoying splotch on my. scanner. That isn’t a metaphor. No, ‘course it is. Get some surf. Keep your secret spots secret. Thanks for checking out my site.
The photographer, abovve, some of her work, below.
I am writing something about how addictive INSTAGRAM is, but, while scrolling (and, can’t help it), and (occasionally) commenting, I came across some incredible photographs of the open ocean; the chaos and the power and the beauty, taken by Rachael Talibart. I HAD to comment. The first comment on a collection of black and white images, which I self-borrowed from a possibly edited-out quote from Ruth DeFreines in my novel, “SWAMIS,” (note the self promotion here- not there) was, “Our minds fill in the colors.” It got a like/heart (part of the addictiveness).
I, of course, had already hit ‘Follow,’ so I got more posts from @rachaeltalibart. I sent a comment saying I would love to include some of her work on my HUMBLE (not by design) blog, and she ‘replied’ it was fine if I include a working link to her website.
This linking is tough for me. I will get my daughter, Dru, to assist.
What interests me is figuring out what kind of person chases storms to capture the previously mentioned power and chaos and beauty, the source of what surfers seek, groomed-out and organized, of course. NOT a lot of bio stuff readily available. Rachael lives in the south of England, gets seasick, and takes on extreme weather so folks can look at the images (she has a book, “Sirens) in comfort, perhaps with one of them as a sort of window, framed and hanging in a formal room.
Anyway, thank you, Rachael. Heart/like.
Meanwhile, I’m getting my works together and planning on having Dru help with the formatting, pre-publishing stuff for my upcoming (I promise) collection, “Love Songs for Cynics.”
I do have some newly added Original Erwin additions on my other pages (nothing on the political or religious front at the moment), so check that out if you get a chance. Contact- erwin@realsurfers.net, Instagram- realsurfersdotnet. AND thanks, as always, for spending. a little time at my humble (not by design) site. GET SOME WAVES!
Real Surfers 