Don’t Wanna Hunker, Baby; Even If It’s hunkering with you…

…I was hoping to go surfing, girl, almost any waves will do.                                                                                                  Though I’d rather have some long smooth glides, glassy faces, spinning tubes;                                                                    With some outside sets and a few friends, shouting, “Hey, this one’s for you.”                                                                         But the swell just won’t cooperate, despite prayers, chants, voodoo;                                                                                         And the next storm’s bearing down on us,                                                                                                                                      Guess I’m hunkering with you… and… wait; let me check the buoys…                                                                                       Oh, um, hey;  wait-a-minute, whoa; Baby, Honey; oh, oh, oh;                                                                                                     You know my stuff’s all loaded up, and I’m ready to explode;                                                                                                      It’s, uh, looking like it just could work, and, I mean; What would you have me do?                                                               You know, um, you could just go with me, and, if it’s blown-out or it’s flat… we could hunker in the parking lot and… No? Oh. Okay; thought you just might be liking that.

So… I’ll be back before you know it; with my batteries recharged, and… no; it’s, like a metaphor. Okay, bad metaphor. And now… now I’ve lost my musical thread. Yeah, sure; once I’m heading out, anticipating and hoping… no, not ‘stroking the other woman.’  Wait, I’ll check the buoys… sometimes… oh. Yeah, still looks, you know, good. No, I didn’t say ‘enticing.’ Oh. So, “Go,” you say, “Just go.”

Okay. You’re the best. And I’ll be thinking of you while I’m…I’m…

…I’m headed up the highway, blasting Dylan on the way, the storm on the horizon, but no wind out on the bay; and my other woman’s back at home, tucking in among the sheets.   It’s an image so enticing, I could easily turn back,  but the swell’s now rapping perfectly… and my board, after all’s,  already tied down to the rack.

My only woman, Trish (work and surfing, oh, and drawing and writing are the 'other' women) said the dark swoop (and I was trying to keep this simple, possibly for a t shirt design) looked like a big sea snake or something, so, now the drawing's all more complicated

My only woman, Trish (work and surfing, oh, and drawing and writing, are the ‘other’ women) said the dark swoop (and I was trying to keep this simple, possibly for a t shirt design) looked like a big sea snake or something, so, now the drawing’s  more complicated. Fine. Simple is too difficult.

Meanwhile, I should probably do some updating: It’s raining, TV weatherpeople hyping up the next storm. During the past few days, even the NCBC, National Data Buoy Center has had high wave warnings, hyping the storm that’s been hitting the coast with unsurfable waves, the angle just too south for the Strait of Juan de Fuca. I thought I might go today, just like I thought I might go yesterday; and just like I think (hope) I might go tomorrow.  I got skunked the last two times I went (counting one trip, with five ‘step off on the beach’ rides as a non-skunk.                                                                                                                                                                                                      A week ago yesterday, a Friday, I went to my Dad’s in Chinook, arriving too late to attempt another go at Seaside, and thinking it would be blown out, anyway. It wasn’t.  On Saturday I got up super early in a driving rainstorm, drove to Westport for the SURFRIDER’S CLEANWATER CLASSIC. Horrible conditions. I did hang out with DARRYL WOOD, and another Port Angeles guy, JOE; and we did sell quite a few hoodies and t-shirts for the OLYMPIC PENINSULA CHAPTER of Surfrider with a design by TODD FISCHER. Oh, and I sold a few Realsurfers Coloring Books, gave one to the first surfer I met in Washington State, Darryl, and another to DARRIN, who I never seem to immediately recognize, but the surfer who gave me a ride to the beach when I was caught in a rip last winter. The contest was shortened and shut down due to the crapfest conditions, heats moved to Sunday.  On Sunday, the conditions had to have been better. I was home, looking at buoys and forecasts, a bit bummed because I hadn’t even ridden a crappy wave.  OH, and I did sell my commissioned work (see next blog down) to TOM BURNS, a judge at the contest, headed immediately afterword to California.

SO, TRUMP continues to grapple with having groped, we’re getting November weather in October, BOB DYLAN won a Nobel Peace Prize in Literature, and, HYDROSEXUAL STEPHEN DAVIS, who I criticized for going to La Push ahead of the storm (and he scored), is also heading for California (he’ll be working Tom Burns surfing) … we finally did get some news about ARCHIE ENDO. He’s still in Thailand, conscious, but unable to speak. He’s communicating with the aid of a board, words and phrases in Japanese. Longterm plan is to move him to Japan where his father lives. We asked his daughter, Lillian, to let him know a lot of Northwest surfers are pulling for him, and I’m waiting a chance to go surfing with him again.

SUPER UPDATE: Keith just called me to tell me I really missed it this morning. Yeah, thanks for going along with the policy of not calling anyone, the “If they don’t know, don’t tell them.”

 

 

Going to Chinook, maybe Seaside, then Cleanwater. Classic… and, Damn, I’ll Running Late

I stole this photo of a typical Westport contest scene from Drew Kampion.  Knowing I was headed down to my Dad’s in Chinook, Washington; and maybe checking out some post/during/pre-storm surf at Seaside, Mr. Kampion, top-tier surf wordsmith, and someone who spent some time judging heats and doing various contest-related chores, sent this photo. I did reply, saying I’m stealing it. He was (and I can’t guarantee it’s actually his photo) encouraging me to give his love to the Surfrider folks who brave harsh conditions to help run the annual contest, or, whoa, even compete in it.

kampionwestpt

Yeah, south wind, sideways swell, sixty yard impact zone, waves that look like the stuff you paddle through to get to the waves you want to ride, roll-throughs, closeouts; welcome to the Northwest Surf City.

I have some notion that I may be able to sell a few Realsurfers Coloring Books while I’m down there. It is a great time to hang at the surf circus that Westport can sometimes be; so, if you’re going; see you there.

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Here’s the second drawing I did (on commission) for Tom Burns, a northwest surfer for, for, forever; with all the stories to prove it. He sent me two photos, thirty (might have been forty) years apart, same classic spot on the Strait. I completed a first drawing, but Trish said he looked like he had a big ass. He’s thinner here. I expect a bonus. Tom will be judging heats at the Surfrider competition. I did judge last year, but, I don’t know; I’m kind of loud, fool around a bit, judge harshly, perhaps… still, kind of hoping they’ll ask me to fill in while one of the judges takes a bathroom break or has to be treated for hypothermia. We’ll see; and I’ll let you’ll know.

UPDATE ON ARCHIE: I’m thinking no news might be as good as we can get. Recovery is slow and probably lonely, half the world away. Still sending whatever good thoughts I have; and I’ll pass on anything I hear.

Atsushi “Archie” Endo in Classic Form…

…and maybe you recognize the stance, even the spot, quite a bit different now, and changing as we speak. The shot was taken by Archie’s friend, and mine, Stephen Davis, making use of his water housing.

archiepapt

While a favorite surfing spot recovers from over a hundred years of being restrained, Archie, hopefully, is moving toward recovery. Steve and I, and some of Archie’s many other friends (not all at once) are waiting and ready to slide a few sparkly rollers with him. Again, not like a party wave, but, after a ride, watching from this very angle, maybe hooting just enough to embarrass him.

Archie Endo, Strait Surfer and Retro Maniac, needs some prayers and…

…whatever wishes those who don’t pray can offer. The Strait of Juan de Fuca longboarder, known for long rides on long walls, the Japanese-American guy with the classic American cars, ten foot boards, the parallel stance, knee paddling into waves from tiny to slightly-bigger, who can milk a wave at Archie’s Reef from the boil to the river; yeah, that guy, is in a hospital in Bangkok, in need of an operation on his brain.

Information is sketchy, but the situation seems dire. Archie, who learned to surf in his native Japan, and, in a show of independence, never had an interest in shortboarding, was raised a Buddhist, no doubt, but is willing to embrace all religious experiences. As part of our ritual in heading for surf together, particularly when going down those winding curves on 112, I’d cross myself, traditional Catholic symbol, with an extra throwout of my right hand;  just for a little extra; and Archie would repeat the gesture.

First, waves; then, size; then, lack of side or onshore wind; then, lack of crowd; then, maybe, a little more size. “It looks… surfable.”

Archie, a salmon roe expert, has been around the world working in the industry; and, for the last two years, has been working in Thailand, with a recent and prolonged sidetrip to Mozambique; coming back to Discovery Bay once or twice a year. This was a big break for him, part of a larger plan. Hopefully this is just a setback. I love going surfing with him; his mellow attitude (oh, he’ll go for a wave) seems to balance my own non-mellowness.

2013 photos 407

Yeah, that guy; Atsushi “Archie” Endo. Offer what good thoughts, and prayers you can to whatever gods you believe in. “I think this day, maybe it wasn’t quite ‘surfable.’ Or maybe this is a lull.

UPDATE 9/27: Archie may have suffered a stroke, fallen, hit his head. He was able to move, good sign, semi-conscious, but unable to speak as of the last report.

UPDATE 9/28: According to Facebook, with a lot of his friends from around the world commenting and ‘liking,’ word coming from Archie’s daughter, Lillian, is that he won’t need an operation; he still can’t speak, but has been able to smile; so, maybe the trauma is relaxed a bit, but the drama continues.  I was working with our mutual friend Stephen Davis yesterday; couldn’t help but recall a few Archie adventures. Steve, who has actually known Archie longer, Lillian being the same age as Stephen’s son, Emmett, spoke of a trip he and Archie made to a difficult-to-access rivermouth break on the Strait that helped solidify their friendship. I can’t help remember the first time I saw Archie, one of those mid-winter crystal days, the only one out, knee-paddling into a peak, standing up, dropping-in, turning into the face, riding it all the way to the shorebreak. Not having surfed the place for twenty years or so, I ran over to meet him. Having worked in Alaska for months, this was Archie’s season. “I take a break,” he said, “then I go back out. And you?” “Can’t wait.”   And I can’t wait for our next session.

Fully-Packed Realsurfers Coloring Book Ready for… you

THE LATEST version has 56 drawings, ready to color. AGAIN, I didn’t draw with a coloring book in mind until recently, and, perhaps, I’m now simplifying the lines a bit, allowing a bit more blank space. MOSTLY it’s a way to get my work to an audience that probably has walls filled with surf photos, posters, paintings; coffee tables stacked with coffee table surf books, shelves, maybe boxes filled with old surfing magazines.

HERE are a few examples:

This is a slightly-altered version of a drawing already posted. Trish asked me if it was a woman or a man. "She needs a little more... definition." Okay.

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Image (86)Image (89)Image (88)Image (90)Image (83)Image (84)Image (79)Image (78)Image (71)Image (81)Image (80)Image (70)Image (77)Image (72)Image (76)Image (67)Image (73)Image (61)Image (60)Image (59)Image (55)Image (54)Image (53)Image (51)Image (50)Image (47)Image (45)Image (43)Image (37)Image (36)Image (32)Image (30)Image (27)Image (26)insidebreakSliderImage (15)realsurfersSteveAlone 001realsurferstriptychoptional 001realsurfers 009realsurfers 006realsurfers 002realsurferssurf_imagerealsurfersrealsurfers 002realsurfersColorTwo 001cropped-realsurfers-001.jpgrealsurferstitleTrish 001surfcultureeventsecond 001realsurferscrystalballcolor 001

OKAY, I added a couple of colored-in drawings two that aren’t in the book, kind of as an example. I’m still figuring out how to market the book. Sales is not anywhere near my comfort zone. I’m checking out Paypal, getting some copies ready to, hopefully, sell at the Surfrider Cleanwater Surf Contest in Westport in a couple of weeks.  The plan is to contribute a couple of bucks from each one to the Olympic Peninsula Chapter. We’ll see. MEANWHILE, I’d be happy to mail an autographed copy to anyone willing to send $20.00 to Erwin Dence, P.O. Box 148, Quilcene, Wa. 98376.  OR, maybe you can contact me at realsurfersdotnet@gmail.com

Thrashed, Trashed, Clipped, Rocked and Rolled at (naming names) Seaside

If you roll up to the parking area at Seaside Cove and notice the wind isn’t howling, the sun is out, full force, the waves are… well, it’s a little hard to judge because no one is out, and you… stop. No one is out; take that as a hint. It isn’t a secret spot, and, a couple of days after Labor Day, there still should be some long weekenders hitting it; and it was just about time for after-workers, locals, soft top renters, someone.

Rather than heading out from the sand-bottom of the Cove, I was going to save myself the paddle out through a hundred yards or so of waves, wavelets, chop from previous winds, a northwest swell mixed and comboed with the chop, sidechop bouncing off the rocks… yeah, the rocks; I would pass the confusion, slip down the dry rocks to the slippery ones and ease in, past the confusion, straight out to the lineup.

Such as there is a lineup. I would pick off a few lefts, maybe, close to the rocks, some of those rights that peak, offer a drop, and an exit; staying away from the lefts that drop you off in the impact zone. Yeah, and maybe I’d head up toward the Point; I mean, like, this time there weren’t any Locals out to be irritated, and, from the still-dry rocks, it did look like there might be a few zingers out there.

NOW, let me explain the rocks. Boulders, really, each one seemingly planted erect, like an obelisk, few lying sideways, as one would think they should; rather like a field of boulders, not dropping off quickly into deeper water, but more rocks farther out; and, with one foot wedged between this monument and another, my leash wrapped around another, somewhere behind me, I discover I’m nowhere near a place where the waves aren’t hitting.

seasiderocksjustrocfksseaside

Fifteen minutes, or so, later, I had moved my van over across from the bathrooms/shower, changed to my shorter-but-stronger leash, one that probably wouldn’t rip loose from my ankle like the other one did, and was back out, through the wavelets and waves and cross-chop. Somewhere in the time I was regrouping, deciding whether to go back out or go back to my Dad’s house in Chinook, two other surfers had come out.

I caught a wave, nice peak, dropped in, didn’t make my decision on which way to go in time. Bloop. Regroup; paddle back out, just in time to be just inside of one of the two surfers to drop into a head high wall just in front of me. BLOOP! “Sorry, man.”

“No problem,” he said.  A few moments later he said, “I have to give you credit. I was watching, through the binocs; you took a thrashing; didn’t give up.” Self-identified as a 25 year local, Jason (this is after I explained I only surf Seaside when I’m visiting my Dad, and usually surf the way-more-in-control waves in the Strait) gave me a few tips on clearing the rocks, like, maybe, wait for a lull. “Lull, yeah. Thanks.” “You know,” he said, “all my friends have surfed in the Strait; I’ve never been.” “Well; maybe when you get, you know, older.”

Mostly I was grateful to get some kind of props for trying to recover from the worst thing on a real surfer’s worry list, looking awkward/gooney/kookish/out of control; way worse than wiping out, blowing a takeoff on the wave of the day (no, that’s worse, if only slightly). Adding witness to either of the above-mentioned terrors compounds the event.

So, I caught another left, with Jason inside to witness something less kook-like; dropped while driving, got into a great position on the wall, then got clipped, just barely, by the lip, and… BLOOP! Roll. Regroup. Blow more water out of my sinuses. A few more waves, a couple of closeouts, a right that hit deep water and vanished; and a long wave, made the drop, drove through a tube, hit the open face, slid into a turn, went for another… BLOOP!

Now I was caught inside, well into the miles of beachbreak between the Cove and the Columbia. It was enough. When I got back to my van, there were two people fooling around in the near-shore reforms, and, squinting toward the horizon, fields of rocks and Jason was nowhere to be seen.

ADDENDUM- When you have a tough session, all one wants to do is make up for it the next time. I was planning on going the next day, maybe somewhere else, but was actually in the area to paint my Dad’s addition; and I had to get back home. My friend, Hydrosexual Stephen Davis, and his son Emmett, came down during the night, checked out Seaside the next morning. Overhead, waves breaking on the horizon, northwest wind. “You aren’t missing anything,” Steve said on the phone. Later he and Emmett hiked down to one of the secluded coves, paddled out to some low tide closeouts. “Worth it, Steve?” “Yeah.” That’s when, in retrospect, one decides a couple of nearly-made tubes might be counted as a success. But, next time…

Woman (actually) Surfing Illustration

I was showing someone the first run of the RealSurfers Coloring Book, and couldn’t help but notice; probably because he pointed it out, that I have quite a few illustrations of women, but only one of a woman surfing. I almost said a girl surfing, and, in fact, did title this “Girl (actually) Surfing Illustration.” Whoops.

It’s part of the myth/fantasy/history/tradition, I guess; and, having just hit 65 years of age, I probably should also stop thinking I’m not 46 years or so removed from being anything like a surfer boy. Surfer Girl, Surfer Boy; nope, doesn’t even sound proper.

This is a slightly-altered version of a drawing already posted. Trish asked me if it was a woman or a man. "She needs a little more... definition." Okay.

This is a slightly-altered version of a drawing already posted. Trish asked me if it was a woman or a man. “She needs a little more… definition.” Okay.

Still, I do prefer a woman who surfs with flow and grace; Margo Godfrey Oberg, Jericho Poppler, Stephanie Gilmore; and, sure, throw in a few carves and power moves… no matter how manly a ‘man hack’ sounds, it’s all done on water. Water. Woman.

This week, men and women, boys and girls; I’m promising myself that I’ll get to the Printery. Not Monday; it’s a holiday, and I do have to go down to my Dad’s, and I do have a lot of work… this week.

“I heard the generators humming…

…the ones that, you know, make the waves.” Having just made it out through the shorebreak and the impact zone, the only-somewhat-younger man was directing the comment to the oldest surfer in the lineup.

No answer. The oldest surfer was scanning the horizon, blinking in the glare as he checked the indicators, a bump to the south, a change in color in the kelp beds. “I mean,” the younger surfer said, loud enough for the others to hear; the alpha, closest to the point, those too far up to make a wave when the next set comes; those sitting on the shoulder, some afraid to challenge (the bigger waves or the three or four most-competitive surfers), others eagerly awaiting that wave where someone falls on the takeoff, gets taken out by the first section. “I mean, you, you must’ve heard them… you know, when you could hear and shit. I mean… I think, I think I hear them… now. You?”

There were no sets approaching.  Even the dominant surfer of the moment, the alpha, looked over for an answer. After a moment, his back to the horizon, the answer came:

“Oh,

I’ve heard the click and clack of an albatross, the subtle swoop of pelicans skimming updrafts, heard seagulls argue,  whales sing and seals bark;    I’ve heard thunder roll and crack, heard the music of rain on moving water, I’ve heard rocks grind and sand squeal; I have heard the squall and the growl and the stadium roar of waves, the boos, the ‘no, no, no;’ and the hiss, and the whistle; and sometimes, I’ve heard the low whisper, ‘okay, okay, okay;’ and sometimes,  even rarer, the laughter. And… more. But, the generators…”

The oldest surfer out looked to the north horizon. A cargo ship, outbound. He closed his eyes and listened. They all listened, though for just a moment, the moment the oldest surfer, quietly, stroked ten yards over, turned, just the other side of the peak, and took off.

 

 

Drawings: One New, One Redo

Image (90)I was thinking Honolua Bay, but probably not soon enough. Almost done, I had the thought that I should have raised the horizon to actually give the effect that this is from up on a cliff, and the waves are coming in from the bottom right. Okay, too late, but, still unable to try to verbalize and explain… working on that.

Image (89)I went through a lot of drawings a while back with my sister, Melissa Lynch, the real artist, and the one I’d done of The Little Mermaid, adding some waves rather than a harbor, was criticized, and Melissa doesn’t go into detail, at least when I’m flashing drawings at her, but the mermaid’s chin was too, um, prominent. Always (now) thinking of the coloring book, I redrew it, also doing a little lightening-up.

I have about twenty drawings (it’s four at a time for the pages) ready to add to the coloring book, coming soon, I promise, with… here’s my new idea: No staples, but (and I’ll experiment with this) maybe a ribbon in the fold, plus instructions to take out a drawing, make a copy, and color on that. That way, you can save the original book, maybe add to it down the line, and use marking pens (if you like), which would bleed through the paper.

If I have to explain that; it’s maximizing content on my end, having cake and eating it too on your end. Yeah, cake; if you’ll forgive my… even if you don’t. Coming. Oh, and I hope you don’t feel resentment for those times when you misjudge the surf situation, and, though you could have gone, you missed it. Fuccctttuppppppttuupdddd! Yeah, trying to get over the last (yesterday) episode of that story. NEXT TIME. Next…sob…time… yeah.

PART TWO: Strait Swell of the Summer

It’s been a couple of weeks since the swell of the summer, and reports and stories have verified that just about every spot that can get waves did; and just about every surfer who tried, got a few sliders somewhere, some semi, top, or totally non-secret break.

So, since I did write a Part One; I probably should have a Part Two:

To recap; I went out on Friday, caught a lot of empty little righthanders before the tide came up and the swell, momentarily, dropped off. I spoke to Kyle, on the beach, who had checked out the usual spots on the Strait all week, and hadn’t surfed. Kyle said he’d been at this well known spot when Raja (and he’s gotten way more props for this than ridicule) stuck my lost SUP paddle in the pilings, where it remained for two weeks until my friend, Hydrosexual Stephen Davis, climbed up, jammed it back down.                                                   Raja did confess, eventually, and I guess we’re kind of friends. ‘Friends’ with an asterisk. Adam Wipeout, when I called to gloat, said Kyle, who claimed not to know Adam Wipeout (I always ask, usually people do know Adam, even in the south part of Washington state), identified Kyle as “The guy you call ‘big arm movements.'”                                                            Oh, it made sense; Big Arm Movements was the only surfer still out when I tried (and this was probably the most embarrassing part) clumsily (it’s okay to wipe out, it’s not cool or okay to be clumsy) to retrieve my paddle; and Kyle was nice. It’s just, I’d never really seen him out of the water, without a hood. Smaller arm movements.

The swell was already on the increase; as Kyle had said when I mentioned that no one had even been checking it out, surfers were headed to the Strait for the weekend. Though I prefer not to surf on weekends, Trish was out of town; and I was planning on hitting it early.

SO. SATURDAY: Not early enough. When I got to the pullout/lot at 6:30, it was pretty full, SUVs were backed up toward the water, some folks were standing and looking at just-after-dawn lines, and there was one guy out. Tim Nolan. I slid in next to a brown Suburban I recognized, slammed on the back of it in a friendly kind of way, and woke Raja up. “Man,” he said, when he climbed out, “you should have seen the boards on the ferry last night.” Raja was joined by another one of his (don’t call them hipsters) friends, both deciding to go elsewhere. “What? How can you pass this up?” Somewhere else might be better; the tide was a little low and the waves were closing out between the reefs. “Excuse me; you really want stand around talking next to a naked old guy?”

I would have been the second surfer in the water if a guy hadn’t suddenly appeared, walking over the exposed river rocks, and paddled out ahead of me. So, for an hour or so, it was Big Dave, Tim Nolan, and me, with a gallery on the beach. Two hours later it was Big Dave, Adam Wipeout, me, and an increasing number of other surfers, including Tugboat Bill and his entourage of the day, with still more vehicles arriving. I think there were 18 people in the water when I pulled out, more heading out, and someone’s surf rig instantly taking my spot in the lot.

MEANWHILE: Keith Darrock and Brett the electrician were battling the rip at the Waterpark, later to make the trek to a semi-secret rivermouth, and the swell was heading into every little cove and point, also creating some fun and havoc on islands in the Strait.

EVEN Hydrosexual Stephen Davis, who had to work in the morning, caught a few sliders in the late afternoon north and west of Port Townsend, sharing a session with, guess who? Tim Nolan.

NOW, this week, I tried to surf at Double Dose; but it was foggy; couldn’t talk myself into it; hung on the beach a while chatting with Concrete Pete and Tugboat Bill. Bill had a different entourage, two kids from a surf camp at Neah Bay, one Tim Nolan has something to do with, and, incidentally, Tim and and another guy (I’ll find out more on this) were, on this day, completing the last leg of their SUP trip from Port Angeles to Neah Bay.

NOT WANTING TO GET SKUNKED, I did find some waves elsewhere. And now, checking the forecast. Hey, it’s summer; there are no waves in the Strait in the summer.