Latest (like minutes ago) Stephen Davis Hawaii Photo

I’ve been waiting for a story from Stephen Davis, still working and surfing and swimming with sharks (confirmed) on the Big Island. The story is one he’s writing of his time in Mexico, with Pirates and Federales and waves; and he claims he’s almost done with it. MEANWHILE, he’s hanging with the locals, sort of.


He said the swell today was probably the best since he got there a couple of months ago; and, evidently, even on a big island, word gets around. “There were, like, 65 surfers out at ________. So, either I could get involved in that, or I could go to some Kook longboard spot with old Haoles.”

OR HE COULD check out the canoe races at this spot. I’ve got to think it’s either a secret spot, a should-be-kept secret spot, or a I-Just-think-I-should-keep-it secret spot. Steve actually sent three photos from his phone. Notice the guy who looks like he’s caught inside. NOW, this might be a treacherous spot that Mikel “Squintz” Cumiskey, who lived in Hawaii several times while his wife was teaching there, claims is “Locals Born and Bred Only.”

As far as Stephen swimming with sharks… waiting for more info on that one. Not sure who won the canoe race. “You have no idea how big a deal this is over here,” Steve told me. “Okay.” I’m pretty sure the guy made it to shore, however. Obviously not a Haole.

I’m just sticking this here to save it. Love the lone figure at the bottom right. Hope I remember where it is. Oh, right; it’ll be on the page of downloads.


Kirk Aeder and Real Surfers Shane Dorian and Chris O’Rourke

IN APPRECIATION of those who have been so very helpful in the first year of I am reposting (edited slightly because I can’t help it) my story on several run-ins with legendary La Jolla Surfer Chris O’Rourke. His friend and biographer, Kirk Lee Aeder, had, I discovered, only recently published a book, “Child of the Storm,” about Chris, with a forward by Drew Kampion, the first editor (other than John Severson) at “Surfer.” Kampion is another person I’ve had a sort of brushed-against connection with. I’ll write about that another time.
For now, the following is from a string of back-and-forths, an email from Kirk.
Please check out the next piece down, the edited version on Chris O’Rourke, and, yeah, buy the book.
Erwin, Some text:

“In 1969 while on a family vacation I visited the Big island for the first time as a ten
year old kid. I was immediately captivated by what I saw, wide-eyed,
and very much hoping to return to live here some day, which I finally did in 1993.
A little bit of irony accompanied my arrival. Soon I started shooting photos
of a surfer, who in many ways, very much reminded me of my old pal Chris
O’Rourke in La Jolla. Shane Dorian, a quickly emerging pro surfer with an Irish
background and also a regular foot, immediately became my primary focus of
attention, and for good reason. Shane’s high caliber of surfing was just so similar to
Chris. I was stoked this occurrence took place, almost as if this had happened for
a reason,and through this I felt a strong connection to my past.
Going from La Jolla, with it’s strong
surfing history, to a place like the Big Island, where surfing was more or less born,
is very special to me and I truly feel blessed. Looking back on it all I wouldn’t change
a thing.” Much mahalo, Kirk

Photo of Shane Dorian at Banyons, Big Island, Hawaii by Kirk Aeder, IMOCO Media