Save the Waves in PT , How Reggie is to blame for ‘Erwin,’ Hangin’ with Poets

UPDATE/EDIT/CORRECTIONS- There was a it of discussion among surfers willing to include me in their group text chatter about how blurry my photos are. Okay, so I thought I was cleaning the lens on my phone; evidently it was the window thingie over the battery. SO, JOEL sent me this photo of Rico and Keith and some fat, Hobbit-like dude. Way too realistic. SO he sent this modified version. “burred,’ he wrote. Not sure if he meant blurred or burned. Not enough o either. Still… better. thanks.

ALSO, CHRIS EARDLEY, who seemed to know almost everyone in attendance on Friday night, says. the guy I identy as Matt is actually named Gus. Keith filled me in on the names of other important folks who were at the event. This was over the phone, so, naturally, I’ve forgotten the names. No disrespect intended.

OKAY, SO… SAVE THE WAVES

So many events in life are the result of circumstance. Timing and opportunity. We know there are no waves in Port Townsend, but, because the beautiful Northwest Maritime Center at the end of Water Street was available, and because LUKE (apologies for not having his last name- can’t we just go by first names or nicknames?), who MC’ed the event, is a member of the Save the Waves group, the Surfrider Foundation, AND, evidently has a connection to the Maritime Center (YEA!) a part of the worldwide festival was held in a surf town with a notoriously rabid and frequently frustrated group of surfers, and, again, no surf.

The short documentary, “Erwin,” is part of the worldwide festival, and, as my daughter, Dru, informed me, later, it was the only one filmed in the US. More on this coming. I had to be there. I wanted the event to be a success, and it was. Without a lot of publicity, enough people showed up that more chairs had to be brought out. It proved to be an opportunity for surfers to chat somewhere other than the lineup or the beach. And everyone was well behaved.

LUKE and another important guy (more apologies) announcing ahead of the short documentaries.

Legendary Olympic Peninsula path(wave)finder Darryl Wood (please forgive me if his name is misspelled), chatting with the important guy from the first photo. Darryl was the first surfer I met when I moved to the northwest in late 1978. The Hood Canal Bridge sank on Tuesday, February 13th. The state set up a passenger only ferry service, and Darryl and I were part of the first day’s riders on Monday, February 19. He was working for a contractor at Puget Sound Naval Shipyard, I was a painter. He did mention something about Jesus to someone, not me, and must have said something about surfing, because, the next Saturday, February 24, decked out in a diver’s suit, crotch strap and all, with no hood, no booties, my sister’s surfboard (I’d sold all of mine), California wax, I was in the lineup at a spot you can no longer (legally) access directly. It was 38 degrees on the beach and my board kept flying out from between my legs. I caught a couple of waves, but he drop was so quick, I ended up kneeboarding. Yeah, sign of things to come.

At some point Trisha’s supposed-to-be family station wagon became our Kitsap County side car pool vehicle (nicknamed the scum car pool by Darryl, no reference to the riders). Darryl and I, and the other 6 or 7 riders all have stories from the commute. Enough so that, having been on the receiving end (“Thank you, Officer.”) of three speeding tickets in one year on the Clear Creek Road (this was before the freeway sections), trying to make the five-something ferry, I was deemed ineligible to drive when Jefferson County set up a van pool. Relief for everyone.

“Pass ’em, Erwin!” Both stories hinge on this. FIRST- At my co-pilot’s urging, I passed a slowpoke on the onramp on his right. The next day (I was off), the scumcar pool was pulled over. “Mr. Dence?” “Not here, Officer; but he’s a very careful driver.” SECOND- A woman was pouring her heart out about life and problems, and Jesus; and Darryl was, of course, listening intently. I was listening accidentally. She was at the point where she said something like, “All I could think of to do was sing, ‘Jesus loves you, yes he does…'” Yes, the distraught woman was singing. We were close to the ferry turnoff on a shortcut, time was short, and there was someone unconcerned about getting home in front of us. I passed them, dropped off my passengers so they could make the boat, and missed it because I had to park the car. “Yes, he does,” I may or may not have sung.

I only see Darryl occasionally, but, I consider him a friend. I asked him fairly recently why he never tried to talk about Jesus with me. “I didn’t think I had to.”

ARNOLD, Darryl’s longtime surf partner, explaining that no one has ever seen a wave this high in the Strait of Juan de Fuca. OR, because these photos are not in sequence, he may have said, “Yes, my wife did win the LIB-TECH surfboard. If you really need one…” I reminded Arnold of the time, not all that long ago, when he was out and I was the third-oldest surfer in the water. He said something like, “Wow.”

Someone I don’t know, RICO (looking surprised I was taking his picture), and the back of CHRIS EARDLEY. The guy in the background in the black hat came up to me later. “Remember me?” “No. Sorry.” “It’s Tim… you called me ‘Tim from Sequim.'” “Oh. well. Look over there, it’s Chimacum Timacum.” The woman with him introduced herself. Forgot her name. Sorry. If she had a nickname…

My daughter, Dru, someone poking himself in the eye, some out of focus guy looking a bit ominous.

The moon over Admiralty Inlet as the short documentaries were playing.

CHIMACUM TIM not looking at all like a guy with a Philadelphia/Jersey Shore confrontation-ready attitude, and ANDREA. I did send Tim the photo and did ask if it was okay to post it. I am so non-confrontational. He said it was kind of out of focus. Yeah, well, most times part of my finger would be over your face, Tim.

Rico, KEITH, and JOEL on the backwall discussing, obviously, how flat is flat, while, in the chairs, Jasmine, a. guy (just to seem cynical, may have once seen. Pete Seeger live- okay, I take it back), two people who seem, possibly, hypnotized, and KATE, not hypnotized. Kate, her husband, SEAN, and their son, sorry on the name, all surf. Family dynamic. I once witnessed them switching boards because Sean had left her with one with a broken fin. On several occasions Kate, paddling out, asked how much longer I was going to be out. Oh. “Not much longer.”

Chris and MATT at the tabe with the raffle prizes. Matt was a judge at the old Cleanwater Classic contest in Westport the year I talked TOM BURNS (not at this event) into allowing me to judge. I may be wrong about that. I helped out three times. Once I helped out with the Surfrider Foundation, selling copies of my REALSURFERS COLORING BOOK (outt of print- sorry), once I was supposed to help out with the flags on the beach (but I decided to be a spotter for the judges, denying others their turns), and, the time I did judge, everyone, evidently, had too much fun for the. head judge’s taste, I refused to call what I thought was a four point ride a six.five- whatever. I did try harder on Sunday. Too late. Sorry, Tom, didn’t mean to get you fired… also). Matt said he had a great time. As did I. WESTPORT. Everyone should go there. Oh, they do.

In the background, over Chris’s shoulder, there’s a woman talking to the guy in the yellow beanie (I had no interaction with him), and over Matt’s shoulder is her husband/lover… man. The came up to me later. He mostly lives in Costa Rica or somewhere with warm water, but he reads my blog. “Oh, so you’re the one,” I said. Not clever. So… like, send me a note, erwin@realsurfers.net and I’ll edit you in.

Newlyweds MEGAN and Chris eyeing the TODD FISCHER prints on offer at the prize table.

Winner! Yeah, I know; why do I have so many photos of Chris? His house needs painting might be one reason. Damn; should have taken a shot of Dru winning possibly the best prize of the evening, a bunch of stuff from Yeti. In the WSL, you have to get a ten point ride to score that. Good work, Dru!

POETRY STUFF-

BECAUSE I have been working toward, maybe, hopefully, selling some of the songs and poems I’ve collected over the years, AND because I’v been concentrating (using all my angst) on writing serious, pretentious, condescending poems of late, I felt compelled to attend a lecture at the Jefferson County Library featuring the Washington State Poet Laureate, Derek Sheffield, and a former wooden boat builder, now poet/mental health counselor, Matthew Nienow.

So, there’s hope. I mean, don’t ask me for mental health advice, but… I will throw down… poetry-wise.

What got me was how willing poets are to quote other poets. Quote Whitman and several audience members almost get giddy. To use a surf simile, it was kind of like when I saw MIKE DOYLE surfing at Stone Steps, 1970 or so, tucking his big frame into tiny barrels. It wasn’t Sunset, but all I could think was, “He’s not all that good.” Again, not Sunset. This was Hadlock/Irondale and I was, as I always am, amazed at how people can be in front of an audience and be… smooth.

To his credit, in my estimation, Laureate Derek seemed to be trying to bring a bit of lightness into the presentation. When no one clapped at his guest’s rendition of someone else’s poem, he did the beatnik thing of snapping the fingers of both raised hands. I so wanted, longed to join in. Maynard G. Crebs.

What I did do is wrote down a question, the dignified way to do a question-and-answer, required in this instance. I was a bit stoked when my question was chosen. Edited a bit, it was: “Are poets preachers, or reporters, or… (last second addition) cheerleaders.” I wasn’t giddy, but I did want to snap my fingers, at least once.

To quote my song, “Don’t Tell Me You’re a Poet,” … I’m a casual observer, looking over someone’s shoulder at last Sunday’s ‘New York Times…”

REGGIE SMART AND ‘ERWIN’- Reggie and I have worked together quite a bit over the past seven or eight years. At some point, Reggie started secretly filming me, then editing the phone videos down to some brief moments where I did or said something ridiculous. he then posted the clips on social media. SKIP AHEAD. He was helping me on a project on a watefront home on Dabob Bay that belongs to Annie Fergerson. NOW, I had been working on the project before Reggie came on scene, so she was sort of aware that I surf, and that I’m (often described as) a ‘character.’ All this was reinforced by Reggie’s ‘Erwhistle’ clips.

I would love to, but cannot discount Reggie’s role in my being in the documentary. I did resist it for a couple of years. Annie, a videographer for the Bill and Melinda Gates (now just Melinda, I guess) Foundation, was busy, I didn’t want to blow up any not-reallyy-secret spots, but, again, being honest, I did want to see some slow motion videos of me ripping across a long wall.

“Erwin” turned out to be a bit too true. And now it’s reaching a relatively small but worldwide audience, and it evidently ‘resonates’ (poet-ish word) with people; a ridiculous old fat guy insisting on pursuing his dreams.

So, thanks, Reggie, thanks, Annie, and thank you to the tens of folks who check out realsurfers.net on occasion.

I might edit in a reasonable poem by me if I find one decent enough. See you! get waves!

REGGIE SMART doing a side of the road deal with my. new(er) board.

“Save the Waves” in Port Townsend, Surf Angst and Drama and Severe Accidents, Rico on “Erwin,” More- Big Ass Magazine for September 28

It is actually pretty exciting tha the “Save the Waves” festival, which has been all around the world, is coming to Port Townsend, a place that has way more surfers than waves; in fact, no waves… ever… no how, no way. BUT, yeah; it’ll be here on Friday, October 3rd at the Northwest Maritime Center, end of Water Street. Doors open at 6pm. The event is sponsored by the Olympic Peninsula Chapter of SURFRIDER. Tickets are $10 in advance, $15 at the door. Look all this up on line.

It may or may not influence you, but the (too) short documentary, “Erwin,” by Annie Fergerson is part of the world tour. I may or may not be getting the chance to further embarrass myself and any and all real surfers by saying something about the film, just recently part of the Port Townsend Film Festival. We’ll see.

Allowed to participate in the post-screening discussion with the producers of the other, very serious films (cinemafotographer Nicolai Crane is to my right, producer Annie Fergerson to my left on the actual stage), I couldn’t resist. I know it looks like I’m hogging the purple spotlight, but, and I did think this was pretty cool of me, I thanked Annie for forcing me to be the superstar subject of a film that revealed my true ridiculousness, handed her the mic, and went back to my seat, head down (fake humbleness).

I had watched the films at the Friday night screening with my daughter, Dru, her friends and neighbors, Pete and Molly Orbea, and (kinda freeloader Reggie Smart). At the Sunday showing, Keith Darrock sat through the other films, took this photo, and showed me that we could (and did) snuck out the back door.

My five minutes of fame were over. But… are they? See you on Friday!

Scott Sullivan, owner of Strait Pizza in Port Angeles, was injured recently body surfing in Brazil. All surfers, and in particular, body surfers, are susceptible to this type of injury. Rides rarely end with a kickout. Scott was fortunate that there is no paralysis, and is recovering. There’s a GoFundMe set up. Google it.

I would feel a bit hypocritical if I didn’t mention that I had a run-in with Mr. Sullivan during a session in which the waves got more and more crowded, and, according to witness, Mikel “Squintz” Cumiskey, Scott and I were getting most of the waves (code for wave hogging). I ‘inadvertently’ dropped in on a wave he turned and took off on at the last moment, pulled out immediately when I saw him, caught the next one, and, while paddling back, noticed (because of big arm gestures) that he was berating Squintz for my sin. “He’s not even from around here,” was one of the points made. This despite Scott having moved here from somewhere on the East Coast, Mike hailing from Florida, and my having lived on Surf Route 101 since 1979. Not a local local to a local local. Still, when I paddled past Mr. Sullivan and offered an explanation if not an apology, he said, “That’s what I surf to get away from.” “Yeah. We all do” I said as I paddled past him.

I wouldn’t be honest if I didn’t admit Mr. Sullivan seems, at a distance, to have a pretty cool lifestyle going on. Inviable. Nice mustache. Still, best of luck in your recovery, Scott. When I see you in the water next time…

DRAMA, SURF ANGST, DEADHEADS, ETC. Every surf session becomes another story. I love that. But, yes, I missed a recent window, and it wasn’t work this time. Keith didn’t miss it, and was willing to share some stories. A guy came up to him with a bleeding and crooked nose. “Is it straight?” “No.” The surfer grabbed it and cranked it over. “Yeah, better.” Still bleeding. Some guy burned Sean’s son on a wave and said it was okay because Sean is a standup paddleboarder. Sean, a great surfer and a local in that area, and not on a SUP (and neither was his son) continued the discussion on the beach. Keith ran into a floating log (deadhead?), dinged his board, and, more importantly, ruined his ride. The ANGST part, that’s surfers’ frustration at missing sessions, or watching surfers or attempting to ride hitting super weak waves. The only cure is getting a few waves. This could be called SURF LUST. All passion, all lust, all hunger, I heard in Psychology 101, seeks to eliminate itself. Again; the cure is… known.

Reggie and I on the progress on our portions of the project to decorate the fence around Port Townsend’s Memorial Field beore they tear it down. Not totally stoked on our possibly-finished panels, both Reggie and I really want to do another. Competitive, huh?

I can’t remember if this is the photo of RICO, writer/poet/surfer/coffee shop connoisseur, that he didn’t want posted on my silly blog, but I told him I’m a journalist, darn it, and I have something we once called freedom of speech, oh, and, if one doesn’t have some corporate overlord, freedom of the press… and…

SO, because of the movie thing, and some notion that I was kind of like famous (ish), there has been some text stuff about, yes, my wave-snagging technique. “Circle, distract, swoop” was one comment. “Seagull strategy” was another. Then Rico got involved:

“Like an eagle swooping low and swift across the water toward unsuspecting otters on a rock just gnashing with their teeth a fresh-caught sculpin, Erwin cruised around the lineup of longboard lolly gaggers on his board, feathering the water with his paddle so as not to distract them from his siren song, even as he saw, barely perceptible on the horizon, and just now pulsing the furthest kelp bed, A WAVE.

“Erwin contemplated what number it would be. 7? 10? He questioned himself. No matter, he thought, his icy blue eyes turned toward the lineup, all of whom were somewhat bemused at his placid paddling around them, his exegesis of the Ocean Book they now found themselves rising and falling on, pulled into his song, even as THE WAVE grew from the depths, circling energetically toward them, against the bathymetry of the reef and sand into its final becoming, its meeting with the epoxied edges of Erwin’s board, its destiny fulfilled, its energy fulfilling the prophecy Erwin spoke to a lolly gagging longboard lineup.”

I did get Rico’s permission to post this. My response was: “Deep thought. In reality, everyone’s just gagging on their own awesomeness, including me, caught up in the wonderfulness of just being out there, that’s ‘there’ in parentheses, and perhaps, catching a wave is of less importance for them and has less value to them than it does for me.” 2nd text- “Sociopathic kook philosophy.” 3rd text- “Even with what seems like unlimited opportunities, it doesn’t take much to realize that opportunities must be taken advantage of, or, at the very least, totally appreciated. I think we all factor in some flexibility in our lives that allows us to be there when the waves may or may not happen. Old guy fucking philosophy.” 4th text- “And I have to go to work. Fucking reality.”

I got ‘loved’ for the texts from Rico. And yes, I am competitive in things I strive to be better at. Not an apology. And yes, I do realize that my chickenshit little blog concentrates on a very small section of the surf world. Thanks for checking it out.

Possible Bonus- I have been working on my poetry stuff. I keep planning on putting samples on my site on, say, Wednesday; and then I don’t. This is a piece I have gone back to several times.

                                    Magic in the Movements

I saw her from the lobby, two bags of groceries pressed against my chest, Above me, on the landing, third floor, My floor.

The sun from the distant windows lit her hair on fire.

Six stairs below her, I leaned against the inside rail And watched her shadow dance.

She was moving to music, music I could not hear.

Her movements made the music real.

Slink and slide and step and stop, Step and stop, slink and slide, one arm always at her side, The other, gliding, raised then lowered, Free, spelling or signing or reflecting, Words or images or memories or dreams,  Real to her.

Sunset music, light, a tinkling under the woodwinds, A violin and bass adding fleeting, then deeper, hints of nightfall.

I should not have been a witness, Seeing her dancing, silent, hair on fire,  In some soft and secret, And private conversation with some distant, absent, loved one.

Loved one, someone else dancing with her on the landing, Sharing the space between her and her shadow.

The background, The air and the light and the wallpaper and the paint were as alive as she was, Slinking and sliding and stepping and slowing, Listening, perhaps, briefly, as if there could be a response.

None but the traffic outside. The dance resumed, Her other arm became the free one, Sending the secret, private message in our most ancient language.

I should not have been there.

I couldn’t face facing her, Couldn’t imagine her trying to explain, Not to some neighbor, some stranger three doors down.

Perhaps she wouldn’t be embarrassed.

I would be.

Setting my bags on the third step from the landing, I sat down two stairs below that, Alone in the dark, with vague shadows of someone, dancing, Projected on the stairwell wall.

I envied her for dancing, dancing alone on the landing, Music swirling in her head.

Long after her door closed and her lock clicked, Long after the light from outside moved up the wall and softened, And faded, darkened, And the inside lights came on, Long after her music was gone, Replaced by the whirr and the squeal of the outside streets, I picked up my bags and listened, for a moment, to the city’s symphony.  

My steps became drums, a plodding, heavy step, step, step, Heavy, tired, And I imagined a saxophone solo, Sad squeaks and missed notes.

Looking out the window at the remnants of a screaming orange sunset, My shadow split and diffused on the worn oak floor, I couldn’t stop myself from sliding, one foot, And then the other, Bouncing my grocery bags in some rhythm that made some sense to me.

Thanks, again. I have to check the buoys. All original stuff by me is copyright protected All rights are reserved.