Shoulder-Hoppers and Name-Droppers

I have only recently come to believe that if my writing career (career in the broadest sense) collided into my real life, the resultant stories would feature real people I’ve had the fortune, good or otherwise, to have come across. No need to exaggerate or embellish, real life has had me brushing against, bumping into, or, in come cases, merely witnessing some real characters. Surfing, in some form, would probably sneak in.  Oh, definitely.

In my life time of surfing I’ve always been a shoulder-hopper, too anxious to catch a wave to paddle out and wait. I am planning on, eventually, putting together a collection of stories. Once I focus on one character, other pop into that story, demand their own.

Fine. Most of the people featured are real surfers, something I’ve aspired to be for as long as I remember. And, as long as I’m remembering…


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