…Reggie goes viral.
You must have heard about the big swell heading for and hitting the northwest coast last week. If not… hmmmm. Let’s make a distinction here: The coast, or “West End” to anyone who did hear about the first 20 foot plus swell in quite some time knows the area, roughly between Westport and Neah Bay, is not the same as the Strait of Juan de Fuca, though there is some crossover claiming. This is mostly based on how ar a surer from, say, Port Angeles, would be eager and willing to drive to given the given that there is rarely any real surf on the Strait. Maybe Canada. They won’t admit it.
Another difference is that I don’t feel the samme way about blowing up spots on the coast. Or, second thought, maybe I do.
Speaking of second thoughts, here’s a shot, used with permission, of REGGIE SMART and LIL’ TONY (only name I’ve been given) reconsidering going out at an unnamed (by me) spot on the Coast.
“No, Lil’ Tony, this is a lull.”
WHAT I AM NOT SHOWING- YET: Along with gawkers and storm chasers, oh, and potential ffolks who claim to like overhead conditions, there were pro level surfers with camera crews, who weaved through the downed trees and flat alleged surf spots to challenge the surf. videos should be showing up soon, after editing, music and AI content added: BUT, making the rounds from Reggie to friends (me, so far, and others), then to friends of friends, and then to… shit, mmaybe you’ve already seen it… Reggie got a killer photo of a pro-level ripper slotted on a black, killer-level wave the background stormy black. Very dramatic!
I will ask permission on that one, BUT, what you didn’t get is Reggie’s first hand account. Paraphrased. “He was pretty slick; knew what he was doing. He’d go to take off, then he’d look to see if it was going to close out. Most of them did. If so, he’d back off. On this one… I was next to the camera crew… I zoomed in. He took off, dropped in, pretty much in the barrel. When it started closing out, he pulled a big turn, like, straight up, pushed through the back and paddled back out.”
“Impressive.” “Yeah, I was impressed.” There were other tales of rippers ripping, camera crews focusing, gawkers gawking.
MEANWHILE, on the US side of the Strait, bobbers are bobbing, and tourists are touring; folks are doing yoga on SUPs, cold plungers are plunging, and hopeful surfers are waiting, sharing tales in the parking lot, and going over cell phone photos from friends of friends of friends. ” Where’d you get that?” “Can’t say.” “Or won’t” “Or won’t.” “Or won’t.”
ON THE BEACH- I talked recently with two surfers from the North San Diego County area where I was raised, and where I started surfing. One was from Encinitas, where Trish and I lied in the mmmid 1970s, the other from Oceanside, closest beach from Fallbrook, and where I worked for two-and-a-half years (1969-71).
The first guy, Eli, was born in 1980. He may as well have been talking about a different planet; the landmarks were the same (Swamis, Pipes, Grandview, etc), but the 29 year age difference between us very apparent, probably more to him. “No, that wasn’t a spot. There were no named spots between Beacons and Moonlight; and that wasn’t really a serious spot.” “Stone Steps.” “Oh, yeah, Stone Steps.”
Gene was raised in Oceanside, graduated in 1970. Trish was in that class, gaduated from Fallbrook, but had been in Junior High in O’side, was a friend of Barbie Barron. “Oh, yeah, I knew Barbie.” “I’d see her at the little jetty, talking with the guys. Didn’t really think that she was checking it out before school while I was there before work. Trish was in the Oceanside Girls’ Surf Club Barbie started. Trisha’s dad was in the Marine Corps. They moved to philadelphia. Then… Anyway, great time to be in Oceanside for a kid.” “Yeah. You lived in Fallbrook and drove to work” “It was twenty miles.” “Oh. Only time we went there was… looking for chicks.” “Yeah; or avocados.”
Next time I see Gene, maybe we’ll talk about avocados (not a code for marijuana, necessarily). I might mention, next time I talk to Eli, that we bought our house in Encinitas for forty thousand. Different world. Maybe thirty surfers out at Swamis wasn’t as crowded as it would get.
Different times diffferent places; in the water, we’re all hunting for pretty much the same thing. Hope surfing gives you what you’re seeking.
“LOVE SONGS FOR CYNICS is at the printers; samples coming soon. I am planning on doing a public event to promote the book, and will update you on the schedule. I am using thhe in-between time in the northwest’s rainiest month to, hopefully, get ‘SWAMIS’ ready for publication. Check back later, or check out realsurfersdotnet on the Instagram.
I should pimp/sell out Reggie- I think you can find REGGIE SMART on the gram. Maybe he’ll post that photo.
