Stephen Davis is, no surprise, on the Big Island; missing out on really cold winds blowing over always-cold water. So, what you see below is Cap (Steve has never given me his real name- maybe it’s Cap) captured mid-turn on his Go-Pro. So, Cap in a cap, jauntily turned sideways.
The spot is called… I’m not trying to be coy here, Steve told me the name of the place he and Cap scored, alone (I forgot it), for three hours; after surfing another, well-known spot (Pine Trees, I think) where Stephen, unable to find the keyhole while trying to come in, got all cut up. Ow!
So, what to do? Neosporin, hockey tape, and a drive to this spot, waves accessible by paddling for fifteen minutes or hiking for a longer length of time. Steve paddled; not sure about Cap.
Meanwhile, the cold winds keep on blowing; and, hey, I hit the rocks a few times last time I surfed, but I was wearing booties, full suit, hood. Go Stephen, go Cap!
Oh; Stephen said the next day the spot was cr-ow-ded. Timing is everything.