Do We Mourn the Waves We Missed More Than…

…we celebrate the waves we rode. Expand that to sessions. I went down to the Southern Washington/Columbia River area a few days ago because my 92 year old father has been in and out of hospitals over the past months, and was in the hospital in Astoria, just over the bridge from Chinook, Washington, where he’s lived for the past thirty years or so.

And I got some waves. Don’t ask me where, but, by a unique and unusual circumstance, Adam Wipeout James and Clint (formerly of PT, now of PA) were also in the area, as was a particular set of tide/swell/wind factors that… that, with some magic and a rented board (while Adam was on the one he is selling me, not paid for yet), allowed me to join them, while my Dad was resting in between visits from  various groupings of five of his eight children, a grandson, a son-in-law, for what turned out to be a great session.


So… great. I might have missed the session if I hadn’t rented a board, I might have given up when the wind was squalling sideshore; but I hung in long enough for the conditions to clean up and, even if Adam hadn’t said I ‘may’ have had the wave of the session, it was all great. It was my wave of the session, the kind of session that might, and should hold a surfer through a week of winds blowing totally the wrong way, lack of swell, lack of opportunity to go even if there was a swell.

SHOULD. My backup plan had been to go somewhere closer on Monday. Monday night I get a photo, texted from one friend who got it from another. I was somewhere I could have been, but wasn’t. Hence the question.

Even during the session on Sunday, I saw a local do the classic surfer thing; looking over the really nice wave he was on to see what the next wave was doing.

MEANWHILE, I’m trying to stick to my ‘no naming’ policy, particularly on this site.  Adam Wipeout, possibly feeling some guilt about having revealed, in the past, and strictly in confidence, something about not-quite-secret spots to a few ‘friends’ (and, confession, I did lose out in the bargain with Clint and Adam, spilled the guts about a spot four hours away the next day, but only in exchange for other inside information. It’s not like fifty friends are headed down there any time soon.)… anyway, Adam has done a little policing of folks who instagram photos and  short but breathy reviews of spots, sort of a “NO PIMPING POLICY.” Maybe Seattle Surfers on Facebook could adopt something like this.

MEANWHILE, it’s ski season; I don’t ski; but man, it looks like fun. Where should I go? When? Is there a cool apres’ ski hangout spot? What should I wear to, you know, be like, like I belong there?

OH, and the guy I rented the board from tried to push a soft top on me. No way, man. Looked me up and down. “I’ve been board surfing since 1965.” He showed me to his store room, pulled a board off a lower rack. Not quite the Hobie, but, yeah, it worked.

OH, and, really, we all want to share surf stories with our friends, including where we went, the conditions under which the spot seemed to work; maybe the key is to have fewer FRIENDS.


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